Historic Old Town
Most of the medieval town fortifications were demolished in the mid-19th century. The Obertorturm and the Schwabentor remain, where the two trade routes into southern Germany once diverged. Even today, a saying above the archway serves as a reminder: ‘Lappi tue d' Augen uf’ (Open your eyes, you fool). Perhaps a hint to visitors not to walk blindly past all the hidden beauties!
In the traffic-free old town, with its narrow streets, gates and passageways, you feel transported back to earlier times. Pretty town houses from the Gothic and Baroque periods proudly display their richly painted and sculpted façades. Particularly worth mentioning are the late Renaissance frescoes on the ‘Zum Ritter’ house, the lavish façade stucco work on the ‘Zum Steinbock’ house, and the richly decorated front of the ‘Zum goldenen Ochsen’ house.
A ‘real’ Landsknecht guided us through the old town and recounted the long history of Schaffhausen. Click on him!
Schaffhausen, the city of bay windows
According to official figures, there are 171 bay windows in the old town. Our guide says, however, that a recent count brought the total to 194. Be that as it may, they are all very impressive. Here are a few examples.
Fronwag Square
- Known as ‘Am Markt’ in the Middle Ages. This is where the market stalls of the vegetable farmers, the bakers’ bread stalls and the butchers’ slaughter benches were located, whilst the fish market was on Vordergasse and the cattle market was in the suburbs near the inn ‘Zum Goldenen Ochsen’.
At the southern end of Fronwagplatz stands the Landsknecht or Butcher’s Fountain, the largest fountain in the city. The heavily armed Landsknecht figure on the fountain column symbolises the fortified city of Schaffhausen.
Mohren Fountain
Named after Caspar, depicted as a black man, the youngest of the Three Kings, carrying a scimitar, a golden goblet and a coat of arms featuring a double-headed eagle (symbolising Schaffhausen’s status as an imperial city). The 16th-century figure, attributed to Augustin Henkel, follows a representational convention that became widespread in the Middle Ages with the veneration of Saint Maurice, the martyr and legendary leader of the Theban Legion. The fountain figure’s clothing and bearing symbolise the wealthy town citizen in the honourable posture of the imperial standard-bearer.
House zum Ritter
The house name ‘Zum Ritter’ can be traced back as far as the early 14th century. The original frescoes were painted by Tobias Stimmer between 1568 and 1570. They are regarded as the most significant Renaissance frescoes north of the Alps.
House zum Steinbock
This historic building originally served as the butchers’ guild hall and operated as a restaurant until 1646. The Rococo-style façade was constructed around 1760. A particularly striking feature is the sculpted ibex on the façade, which is fitted with real antlers. The building is located at Oberstadt 16.
St John's Church
Towards the end of the 14th century, a three-aisled Gothic church was built on the site of the old Romanesque church.
On 30 September 1529, one day after the introduction of the Reformation, the paintings and altars were destroyed. The niche containing the Madonna on the tower was bricked up and the organ demolished. By 1532, the church was completely stripped of its ornamentation.
Following several renovations, the church underwent a complete refurbishment between 1983 and 1990, involving the demolition of the gallery and the installation of a hydraulic concert stage. Since 1870, famous conductors and musicians have appreciated the sound projection and acoustics of the large church interior. (After a concert on 17 October 1928, Albert Schweitzer praised the organ’s particularly ‘soft and delicate tone’.) Since 1946, the International Bach Festivals in particular have been renowned far beyond the region.
Tell fountain
In front of the magnificent semi-detached houses ‘Zur Wasserquelle’ and ‘Zur Zieglerburg’, built in 1738, stands the William Tell fountain, featuring a statue of Tell and his son – a replica of the original from 1522.
House zum Tiergarten
The house took its name in the 15th century, when it served as the ‘zoo’ for the neighbouring All Saints’ Monastery. Over the centuries, the building was extended, including the addition of a Renaissance south wing with bay windows in 1622. Following severe damage caused by the bombing of Schaffhausen in 1944, the house was rebuilt true to the original.
All Saints' Monastery